thirdBreakfast

joined 1 year ago
 

Last June, fans of Comedy Central – the long-running channel behind beloved programmes such as The Daily Show and South Park – received an unwelcome surprise. Paramount Global, Comedy Central’s parent company, unceremoniously purged the vast repository of video content on the channel’s website, which dated back to the late 1990s.

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago

Great question (and we are reaching the outside edge of my knowledge here). Something like 3-5% of carbon in plants is taken up from the soil by plant roots. I don't fully understand the mechanism, but the organic carbon percentage is an important competent in the calculation of how much artificial nitrogen a crop is going to need, so I guess it's probably some biochemical process for making the nitrogen available.

The organic carbon percentage is closely watched by farmers and is something of an indication of soil health. ie if your crop rotation is reducing the OC% over time then you probably need to reconsider it. It's one of the reasons burning crop stubbles is a much rarer practice now.

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 10 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Hay is cut from any sort of cereal plant early in it's lifecycle, specifically before the plant starts concentrating it's energy into the seeds. At this stage the plant stalk is sweeter (even to a human - give it a bite). After flowering, the plant is concentrating it's energy into the seeds. By the time it's fully done this (which takes a number of weeks), there is very little protein in the stalk, and it's far less palatable (or nutritious) to animals. The plant stalk is now essentially 'straw'.

Commercial hay can be mowed from a meadow (in Australia usually ryegrass) in which case it will have all sorts mixed in, or from crops intended for making good hay (in Australia usually oats or wheat). Commercial straw (which has a tiny market) is cut after the grain has been harvested from the top of the plant. In commercial broadacre cropping in poor soil areas (the bulk of Australia's grain areas) it's usually better economics to keep your crop residue including straw since the cost to replace the carbon would be higher that what you'd get for the straw after the cost of harvesting it.

Source: I play a lot of Minecraft

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 6 points 2 weeks ago

I love that Earthlings used science and international cooperation to solve a worldwide climate problem that threatened them. I wish we could do that again.

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 2 points 2 weeks ago

Thanks, I ended up going with Garage, but it has the same issue. I assumed I could just specify some buckets with their keys in the docker-compose or garage.toml, but no - they had to be done through the api or command line.

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 3 points 2 weeks ago

This is correct, I already installed the minio cli, but when I came back and read this, I tried it out and yes, once garage is running in the container, you can

alias garage="docker exec -ti <container name> /garage"

so you can do the cli things like garage bucket info test-bucket or whatever. The --help for the garage command is pretty great, which is good since they don't write it up much in the docs.

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 2 points 2 weeks ago

Thanks. I ended up going with Garage (in Docker), and installed the minio client cli for these tasks.

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 2 points 3 weeks ago

One I'm writing. I use the host file system (as I have a strong preference for simple) for it's storage, but I'm interested in adding Litestream for replicating the database onto AWS.

 

Has anyone got some experience/advice for choosing between the options? It seems like they are:

My usecase is just to have a local single instance for testing apps against. I prefer to spin stuff up in Docker on the homelab.

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 4 points 4 weeks ago (1 children)

"Convert this text to make it sound like from a random person: "

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 4 points 1 month ago

Love the effort you've put into this question. You've clearly done some quality research and thinking.

When I asked myself this same question a couple of years ago, I ended up just buying a second hand Synology NAS to use alongside my mini-pc. That would meet your criteria, and avoids the (I'm not sure what magnitude) reliability risk of using disks connected over USB. It's more proprietary than I'd like, but it's battle tested and reliable for me.

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 1 points 2 months ago

Yep, it'd have to be a tiny town to not have a war memorial. If there's no war memorial there's probably an honour bord with the names of the fallen in the hall or RSL. Since ANZAC it's been a part of Australian culture that those who died in service of their country is a sort of sacred thing. It's significance has ebbed and flowed a bit over the years. Our pride in the services was especially damaged in the Vietnam war years, when ANZAC day crowds shrunk quite a bit and you could have imagined at the time that it might all die out. It's had a bit of a resurgence since.

After most big wars, the federal government has put a bit of money into war memorials, and it was pretty much just a matter of the local RSL or town council writing a letter to get a decommissioned artillery piece of some sort, or an old torpedo for the local park as a centrepiece for your ANZAC day ceremony. Also, if you read the plaques on 1950's or 60's buildings in the bush, you'll often see many of them are "War Memorials". War Memorial swimming pools and sports grounds are common ones. The reason communities did this is that at the time donations to "war memorials" were tax deductible.

You've made an interesting observation. For Aussies this is probably something they've never noticed. It's probably not an indication that we're very war worshipping, just that for a small country, the deaths involved in the wars we've been part of were significant, and perhaps especially so for little country towns where the surnames on the honour board match some of the street names and the bloke you were just chatting to at the post office.

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 7 points 2 months ago (1 children)

Shoutout to Magic Earth, the (weirdly named) iOS app that uses OpenStreeMap data. Works on CarPlay, has reliable routing, and I get a buzz out of updating a changed a speed limit or something on OSM and then seeing the change implemented a few weeks later when I'm driving through there again.

 

This is a pretty great 1 hour introduction to AI from Andrej Karpathy. It includes an interesting idea of considering LLMs as a sort of operating system, and runs through some examples of jailbreaks.

[–] thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world 1 points 2 months ago
starcoder2:latest       	f67ae0f64584	1.7 GB	3 days ago 	
phi3:latest             	d184c916657e	2.2 GB	3 weeks ago	
deepseek-coder-v2:latest	8577f96d693e	8.9 GB	3 weeks ago	
llama3:8b-instruct-q8_0 	1b8e49cece7f	8.5 GB	3 weeks ago	
dolphin-mistral:latest  	5dc8c5a2be65	4.1 GB	3 weeks ago	
codeqwen:latest         	df352abf55b1	4.2 GB	3 weeks ago	
llama3:latest           	365c0bd3c000	4.7 GB	4 weeks ago

I mostly use starcoder2 with Continue for code autocomplete, the big deepseek coder is a bit slow (I can feel it thinking), but it and the regular llama3 are good for chatbot type programming questions.

I don't really have anything to compare the M1 performance to. I guess the 8GB models output text a little slower than the web versions of the same models, and the 4GB ones about the same. Using ollama in the terminal, there's sometimes a 0.5-2 second pause before it starts outputting. Not with phi3 though - it's surprisingly snappy for the quality of answers.

 

I'm writing a specification for a web app that will store sensitive user data, and the stakeholder asked that I consider a number of fairly standard security practices, but also including that the data be "encrypted at rest", i.e. so that if someone gains physical access to the hard disk at some later date the user data can't be retrieved.

The app is to be Node/Express on a VPS (probably against sqlite3), so since I would be doing that using an environmental variable stored in a file on that same computing instance, is that really providing any extra security?

I guess cloud big boys would be using key management systems to move the key off the local instance, and I could replicate that by using (Hashicorp Vault?) or building a service to keep the key elsewhere, but then I'd need secure access to that service, which once again would involve a key being stored locally.

What's your thoughts, experience, or usual practice around this?

2
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by thirdBreakfast@lemmy.world to c/coffee@lemmy.world
 

I asked for some advice here a couple of months ago about transitioning to espresso from Aeropress, and have since done that, and thought my journey my have some lessons for others, or y'all might have some ideas for my remaining issues.

Journey

Instant -> Nespresso pods -> Aeropress -> multiple daily espresso

Machine

After a bit of research, I was quite keen on the Sage/Breville Dual Boiler, but it was well out of my price range. I ended up purchasing "The Infuser" which is like their bean to cup Barista Express without the built in grinder. I had been planning on getting the Bambino, but the Infuser was less money (AUD350 - perhaps this model is being retired) and seemed more like a 'real' espresso machine.

The Infuser is a 54mm portafilter, PID, three way valve machine. The water heats quickly (although not as quickly as the Bambino) although I tend to turn it on and let it sit for a while to let the group head warm through anyway.

It's supposed to have volumetric dosing, but the volume output changes with the grind, so perhaps this is just setting how many pumps of the little piston pump or something. It's not time either. In any case, it does allow you to make repeatable shots once you've dialed in and set it. The setting is very simple to change.

The water tank is plenty big enough for me, and the drip tray might be on the small side - I generally empty it every coffee but you could probably do two.

Accessories

I have a personal failing wherein I buy too many gadgets when I'm excited about a new hobby. I'd originally started with a Rhinowares hand grinder with my Aeropress, but had found a 2021 Timemore C2 on eBay which is nicer to hold, and grinds the same amount of beans with a lot less turns. Perhaps it is visibly more consistent particle size, or perhaps I'm imagining that to justify this purchase.

I'm very happy with the eBay puck screen I purchased. I don't know that it's making the coffee any better, but it's keeping the group head clean enough that I don't bother scrubbing it after each shot, and the pucks I tip out of the portafilter have gone from 6.5 to a 3.5 on the Bristol stool chart.

I also got the cheapest ring that goes over the portafilter I could get for charging the basket, and that plus reducing to around 16gm of beans (I only use the double unpressurised basket) means I don't up with tiny specks of coffee all over the kitchen which was a constant issue when I started.

I also have a $2 eBay needle distribution tool, a couple of swirls with that means that when I bang the portafilter on the bench a twice I have a pretty flat, clump free looking bed of grounds that I've just been tamping with the supplied plastic tamp. I've never used anything different, so this seems fine to me although I wish it was a tiny bit bigger as there's a visible ridge left around the outside after tamping. This is probably a future upgrade.

I bought a couple of 220mlish ceramic cups, which I love the look and experience of. If you popped in to see me, that's what I'd serve you, but for daily use I use Duralex 220ml latte glasses since I'm still getting used to the milk frothing process and it's easier to see how that's gone in a glass.

The Experience

My main concern going to espresso was that it would be more mucking on than the Aeropress and that I'd give up and go back to that. Actually, it's probably a similar amount of carry on - just more bench space. They are both more time consuming than the Nespresso machine, but in my opinion worth it for the better coffee experience.

Dialing in has been a bit of a challenge - I'm chasing 16 in, 32 out in 30 seconds, but the click steps on the Timemore seem too big. For example on the medium roast I'm drinking this week that recipe goes from 22 seconds to 50 seconds with a single click. I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong - I don't think so. In any case, I've just been choosing whatever is closest, and altering the dose and tamp pressure tiny bits to try and improve it a little as I work though that lot of beans. This seems fine for milk drinks.

Fussing on frothing the milk seemed like an optional thing to me, and I wasn't sure I was going to bother (with the Aeropress I just microwaved my milk) but that silkiness of the milk coffee when this is done correctly turns out to very worth. My latte art is highly variable, tending to mostly rubbish @daddyjones@lemmy.world knows what I'm talking about. I think my frothing is fine, but other people seem to be able to decide when the white blob appears on top, whereas mine randomly appears when it feels like it - often too close to the end of the pour when the cup is full. I'm sure this is to do with distance and speed of the pour and I'm missing something important. Feel free to offer suggestions.

The steam wand on this Breville is quite slow (which is probably a plus for me while I'm learning to steam milk), and makes a horrid squealing noise that no one would want to hear in the morning. I don't know if that's all steam wands in the world, just this model, or just my machine or my technique, but the cure seems to be to lower the jug and make half a second of stupidly large bubbles then put the tip back in.

Stopping steaming when I was burning my hand on the jug (which seems to be the standard advice) produced coffee that wasn't hot enough, so I purchased a milk temperature gauge, and highly recommend this. I've started counting how many seconds after the jug is too hot for my hand before the temperature gauge is just touching the red zone, so I could probably ditch it now.

Conclusions

Basically - no regrets. I'm enjoying lovely coffees that feel like a treat every day. I think a grinder with finer steps might be in my (distant) future, and I'd like to solve my latte art issues, but overall the experience has been a source of joy.

 

*What rights do you have to the digital movies, TV shows and music you buy online? That question was on the minds of Telstra TV Box Office customers this month after the company announced it would shut down the service in June. Customers were told that unless they moved over to another service, Fetch, they would no longer be able to access the films and TV shows they had bought. *

 

I'm currently brewing in an Aeropress, and considering one of the lower end espresso machines.

But based on a few comments from James Hoffmann about him drinking filter coffee at home, I'm wondering if an espresso machine is something that people end up using every day, or if people are brewing with simpler methods and just making espressos when they've got time on the weekend or people over?

What's your experience, did you buy a machine and it mostly just takes up counter space, or is it a daily source of joy?

 

Somewhat bewildered by the millions of Aeropress recipes on youtube, I'm wondering if daily users end up settling into a reliable, simple process that's similar from person to person.

In particular, I note that my method (basically a french press) is vastly different from the one in the instructions which is ground much finer, uses less water, and starts dripping through the filter immediately.

Anyway, here's me:

  • 12g mild-roast (coarse ground a touch finer than most people would use for a french press, done with a C2)
  • inverted
  • one filter paper, not washed, but damp enough to stick
  • fresh boiled water (so probs 95°+) 180g
  • stir enough to break up the floaties
  • push the plunger in far enough that the liquid is almost at the top before I put the filter on
  • tip over and start plunging at 1:30, finish by 2:00
  • into ~70g warmed milk

I'd love to hear yours.

 

Moved from a Rhinowares to a 2021 Timemore C2, stumbled out to breakfast and used the same clicks without thinking.

 

I'm a coffee newb - bought an Aeropress and a Rhino hand grinder, and I've sort of flailed around changing things randomly and ended up with an enjoyable repeatable cup by sticking to the same beans, grind, water temperature, brew time & method that seems to work for me.

My issue is I'm not really sure about the terms used to describe the basic aspects of coffee taste - eg bitter, sour, acidic, under extracted, over extracted, etc. I feel like if I did understand them, that would give me the skill to try different things (such as a different roast) and adjust the other factors to match them to get something that suits me, or to be able to make a cup of coffee that would suit someone else's taste.

I'm wondering if you're able to tell me how to deliberately create these other tastes - I imagine I could comparatively taste them and mentally match the words to the sensations. For example, how can I deliberately create an obviously bitter cup, an over extracted cup etc.

The resources I've got for this project are the Aeropress and grinder mentioned, Nespresso machine, a medium and a dark roast, a French Press, and whatever coffee I can get from a supermarket.

Does this sound like a viable plan? If so, what are the tastes I should learn, and how can I create guaranteed and slightly exaggerated versions of them?

 

I started on Elitedesk 800 G1s when Raspberry Pis got hard to find and expensive, and I now feel they are better in every respect if you don't need the GPIO pins.

Every time I open them up to upgrade something I'm impressed with the level of engineering. There are quality manufacturer manuals for them, the cooling is good and they look great

 

The P20iX is a tacticool type 21700 size light. It's very floody - perfect for inside buildings or close range outside where you need a big field of view, and bright enough at 4000 lumens .

The bumps on the front are something super tough for breaking car windows etc - so I guess aimed at first responder types. I quite like the double clicky tail switch. One is a really solid on/off click and the other cycles between light levels.

It has two modes, I use it in the everyday mode where it remembers the light brightness from when you turned it off. There also a hard core mode where it always turns on in max.

The hard plastic holster has a hole in the bottom, which I assume is to avoid melting it with the 4 x 4 x CREE XP-L2V6 leds, but I have occasionally just turned it on in the holster for general lighting if I needed both hands.

Since it's quite easy to pull it out of the holster, I do have a slight worry that it will come out by itself if I'm clambering around somewhere - but it never has yet. The holster is intended for clipping on those massive duty belts - it would swing around a bit otherwise. I have a vague recollection it came with some clips to use on narrower belts but perhaps I've thrown them away.

The 21700 battery it needs is a weird Nitecore one with positive and negative contacts each end. I wasn't wild about that, but in practice I never carry spare batteries, so they can be weird or built in and it's no particular problem. If you really hate this idea, there is an optional caddy for 2 x cr123s - but less brightness and lower run times.

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