This is pretty typical for universities. They don’t want the airwaves clogged, doubling up NAT can lead to networking wonkiness, and they don’t want you giving university network access to unauthorized folks with an open AP.
When you say VR streaming, you just mean wireless from your PC to the headset, right? There’s a chance you could do that with an offline wireless router if the VR experiences you’re looking to play are single player.
Understood. Have a pleasant day.
“After seven years in the D.Q. I’m free!”
Unfortunately most of the PCB fab companies only print off PCBs in at least batches of 5. I bought enough parts to make two cart readers and split the costs with a friend to help drive the price down into the low hundreds.
I don't know which number you were looking at when you saw the Sanni was "so expensive". You can get an assembled Sanni v3 for about $150 online. https://savethehero.builders If you join their Discord, there's also folks selling Sanni v5 DIY part kits for $110-130 depending on what add-ons you go for. https://store.starshade.dev/product/oscr-hw5-complete-kit-diy It's still a pretty penny, but significantly less than some of the $250 pre-assembled stores online.
I wasn’t able to find anything definitive online, but its specs and functionality sound pretty close to BennVenn’s Joey N64 cart reader/writer. https://bennvenn.myshopify.com/products/joeyn64-cart-flasher
V2H unfortunately isn’t broadly available as a concept in the US yet.
For what it’s worth, most of the Kia/Hyundai V2L plugged into your house shenanigans aren’t as convoluted as they might seem. Basically there’s something called a Transfer Switch that you can get installed into your house’s circuit breaker. It tells your house to stop pulling power from the grid, and start pulling it from whatever you have plugged into the switch. It’s technology that’s been around for ages for gas generators. You can hire an electrician to install it. The big issue with the current Kia/Hyundai V2L and transfer switch setup is 1) the car’s doesn’t put out enough voltage to power an HVAC system in certain power outage situations, and 2) You don’t any of the novel back and forth charging where your house / the grid can use your car like a cheap reserve. Folks have used Ioniq 5s to keep a fridge and some lights going for days though.
At this point your options are be a Lightening early adopter, wait, or buy whichever electric car you’d like now and maybe look into a generator.
The single player campaign is excellent. It’s only about 6-8 hours long, but they use that time to quickly cycle between some inventive mechanics and set pieces. It’s one of the best FPS campaigns of the last decade. Definitely worth the $3.
It’s not a threat. It’s a warning. Get out of there TPM.
I can’t help much on the power draw side of this question, but one thing to look out for with a UPS is some sort of communication option. (Usually NUT over ethernet, but there are some USB options too.) Most modern UPS brands will have a plugin you can install on your Raspberry Pi and Mini PC that allows your UPS to signal, “Hey, I’ve got 3% of battery life, you actually need to gracefully shut down now.” It’s mostly useful for NAS applications with spinning drives, but it could help save your Pi’s SD card potentially.
It’s a pretty standard feature these days, but the cheapest of the cheap will omit it.
I loved the New Trek rewatch podcast The Greatest Trek’s running joke of referring to Admiral Vance as anything but his actual name.
You know, Admiral Police-Captain-In-A-Gritty-Crime-Thriller-That’s-A-Casting-Mistake-Because-He’s-Distractingly-Attractive. https://youtu.be/gChtl014aLk?si=K64RvGwkgq2M05Zl&t=3164
(That’s a YouTube timestamp link. It should automatically jump you 52 minutes into their Discovery retrospective episode to the segment with their Admiral Just-For-Men supercut.)
Derpy power couples always end up being ~~the first of your college friends to buy a house~~ the reformers of your planet’s economic system.
Leeta and Rom are some of the most earnest characters in Star Trek. I’m so glad Bashir’s beard didn’t fade into obscurity after their rite of separation.
Wrapped up my documentation on this unusual mashup! https://flatfootfox.com/typeboy-keyboard-typepak-cartridge/
I managed to fit a XIAO BLE, Sharp Memory Display, shift register, and LiPo battery inside of a Game Boy Advance cartridge. The "TypePak" is mostly just for aesthetics, but it will make swapping microcontrollers more straightforward if I use it on future builds. The keyboard itself is pretty strait-laced 58 key split ergo outside of its GBA-compatible cartridge slot. I did some experimenting swapping out volume rotary encoders for thumb switches to try and keep the Game Boy vibes going. Everything's topped off with a few FK Custom keycaps.
Bring me pictures of Spider-Pup!