this post was submitted on 12 Jan 2024
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3D Printing

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You can see where around corners and even some straight runs it is peeling up. I'm running first layer at an agonizing 15 mm/s. Using hatchbox pla filament, just dried in dehydrator. 200° nozzle and 70° bed. The glass is freshly cleaned with soap and water, I just did several atomic pulls, I've trammed at different heights using a feeler gauge, and absolutely nothing is working. Any one have any ideas?

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[–] CaffeinatedMoth@lemm.ee 1 points 1 year ago

Many suggest adding some type of adhesive to the surface, and I have a trick that might interest you. Glue sticks and hairspray are messy and are a pain to clean. When I used a glass bed, I kept about a tablespoon of sugar dissolved in little less than a cup of water nearby. One could use a paper towel to wipe a thin film over your glass bed. I did this as it warmed up and the water dried quickly, leaving a thin tacky surface. One could put it in a small spray bottle too. Very easy to clean with water. If you eventually get buildups after weeks of printing, a quick wash with soapy water cuts through instantly. Give it a try. I could never get PLA to stick to my glass bed. PETG worked sometimes, and other times it bonded too well and broke the glass when it was removed, or cooled to the point of removing. The sugar water worked there too in providing a sacrificial layer that protected the glass and made removal easier.

[–] ironhydroxide@sh.itjust.works 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Looks to me like your offset is wrong, or your first layer height is too large

[–] EitherEther@lemmy.world 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Yeah, agreed. It looks like it could use a bit more squish.

[–] lemann@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Seconded (or thirded?) I have a (textured) glass bed and my first layer is usually quite a bit more squished than this

[–] BingoBangoBongo@midwest.social 0 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I was able to get it printing, but doing some calibration confirms that adjusting z offset made the bottom layer better. What's the point in z offset specifically, vs just changing the gap when tramming or the initial layer height?

[–] p1mrx@sh.itjust.works 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

If your printer has a touch sensor, then raising/lowering the entire bed has no effect on the first layer. The Z offset defines the difference between the touch point and the first layer.

I think most people calibrate the Z offset for 0.2 mm, and then never change the first layer height.

Edit: oops, this thread is a month old.

[–] Steve@startrek.website 0 points 1 year ago (1 children)
[–] BingoBangoBongo@midwest.social 0 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Yeah I was doing that for a bit but I hate cleaning it off the plate. I should have never switched to borosilicate 😂

[–] JustBrian7872@feddit.de 0 points 1 year ago

Glass cleaner also works very well for removing most of the glue. Let it soak for a little and then use a scraper to remove the glue