dgdft

If runners are a worry, you can always put them in a container!

I put mine in these "plantainers" that you can find at most big box stores, and they seem to like it: https://www.homedepot.com/p/MacCourt-20-Gal-Large-Plantainer-Preformed-Pond-Liner-PP2615/308771723. Drill holes, optionally paint white (if you live somewhere hot), add soil/fert/plant, and you're off to the races.

Make sure you know about the University of Arkansas cultivars before pulling the trigger though! They've got some pretty impressive varieties, including ones that produce fruit on first-year branches.

You didn't start by asking a question. You needlessly trashed a helpful suggestion from a place of ignorance, then asked a naive question defensively to mask a lack of knowledge.

That is rude and trollish behavior.

Since it seems like you don't know much about bash at all, I promise the book will help you.

You can be someone who actually knows what they're talking about instead of making embarrassing, snarky comments that expose your lack of education on the topic at hand.

Bash has had some nice minor features and syntax sugar added, but the fundamentals are entirely the same. All the examples in the book work just the same today as they did when it was written.

What was added in 4.X or 5.x that you can't live without? What do you think has changed that merits inclusion?

It's a 36 y/o language, mate. I still reference my copy all the time, and found it to be a great definitive resource when I was learning.

How many bash 4/5 features are you seriously using on a regular basis? What do you think is out-of-date?

I highly recommend O'Reilly's Learning the Bash Shell in paperback form: https://www.oreilly.com/library/view/learning-the-bash/0596009658/.

The other responses you've received so far don't offer much insight into the historical background and underlying mechanics of the shell, which are crucial to understanding the "Why?"s of command-line quirkiness.

• I don't want to spoil your fun with the mint, but the runners above ground aren't the ones to worry about. Mint likes to spread through its roots... a lot. Best kept in a container ;).
• Most pests are visible to the eye, but there are a few exceptions like spider mites. You'll typically know you have them by other obvious signs though. A loupe can be helpful for insect ID, but isn't crucial.
• You can mostly ignore the nutrition from that compost. You'd have to do some math to know the impact of that fertilized garden soil, but it's likely quite modest. Feel free to use 1/2 - 3/4 the recommended amount of granular for the first month or two if you want to be conservative.
• High NPK numbers aren't necessarily good or bad, but they are more concentrated and can be more liable to burn things, depending on their form factor and nutrient release pattern.
• As for lettuce/onion seedlings, ideally you till some fertilizer into the bed while you're prepping it. You could give them some liquid fertilizer at half-strength to make up the difference - but yeah, they'll still do fine if you just sidedress in a couple of weeks. Both those plants really like higher-nitrogen feeds, so you might want to think about getting a different fertilizer for them down the road.

All that being said, don't feel obliged to follow any of this if you don't want to. You've definitely set yourself up to get something edible and tasty, so don't sweat the details if it starts getting in the way of your fun. Hope it helps and happy gardening!

Thanks! I'm in central Texas - zone 8.

My wife and I are talking about moving up north towards the end of the summer, so I've been trying to make the most of this last season. I'll definitely miss the early start of spring, but I'm excited to try out new local plants wherever we end up. Having to hunt for plants that can deal with weeks of >100F days and no rain gets old after a while.

Great start OP! Some blunt honesty: it's overcrowded to the point that you will not be getting optimal results - but you've set yourself up for some good learning experience nonetheless. Further guidance:

• Get some balanced granular fertilizer (e.g. 5-5-5) and apply according to package instructions, mixing into the top 1-2 inches of soil beneath the mulch without injuring roots. Do not be afraid to use basic-ass Miracle-Gro or the like; organic ferts do not have magical properties that make them more effective than inorganic.
• Don't overtreat for pests: get a spraybottle of insecticidal soap for spot treatment of aphids and the like. Hand-pick larger bugs like hornworms. If you have a problem that the two above steps can't solve, reach out to your ag extension office for ID help and further guidance. Eschew neem oil; it's noob bait.
• Figure out how you want to support those tomatoes. Premade storebought cages will suffice for this year, but you'll want to make your own cages from wire panel (100x easier than it sounds) or set up a staking system eventually.
• "Full sun" is a bit of a misnomer: in practice, it's a shorthand term of art for 8+ hours of direct light. Fortunately, everything you planted will be happy with that 6-8 range. You'll be sacrificing about a third of your max yield, but you're spot on that it'll make life much easier in the summer.
• Planting mint in-ground is a home gardening rite of passage. You will learn from that. Welcome to the club ;).

League ran fine for many years on Linux. The problem is Tencent, not Linux.

Per Riot's own stats, the rates of scripting in competitive league went way up AFTER they rolled out Vanguard, so it's not about anti-cheat either.

Yeah, I totally agree with that framing.

Overwatch definitely has its high-level cheaters, but the reason for that article is their ban wave model that Blizzard carried over from WoW: they often wait a few days/weeks before nuking an account. This approach means it's possible for trolls to hack their way to high levels of the ranked ladder for a brief window, but those accounts are effectively canned in the long run. The upside is that cheaters have a much harder time figuring out why they're getting flagged.

I quit playing after Blitzchung (2019), so OW2 may have a totally different scene going on due to switching from P2P -> F2P, but I only ran into a single aimbotter in the span of several hundred games. I still have friends who play though, and haven't heard many complaints. A more recent reddit thread seems to agree too, e.g.:

Been playing for many years, and my roommate can agree with me. Probably the FPS game with the least amount of cheaters I've come across.

Blizzard did something right with the anti cheat.

https://old.reddit.com/r/Overwatch/comments/xwk02o/how_is_the_anti_cheat_in_this_game/ir6x5k7/

According to Riot's own stats, the number of detected cheaters in ranked matches doubled after they rolled out their root-level AC for League (1/400 matches -> 1/200 matches):

https://www.leagueoflegends.com/en-us/news/dev/dev-removing-cheaters-from-lol/

https://www.leagueoflegends.com/en-us/news/dev/dev-vanguard-x-lol-retrospective/

The article you cited does not support what you claim. League had a bot problem, not a cheating problem. The bots played against each other, and not against humans. This is because they were extraordinarily bad; they ran out of base and died, just to claim credit for having “played” games so the account could unlock new characters.

I spoke of Riot Games because I was comparing Leauge with their other game, Valorant.