dditty

joined 1 year ago
[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 4 points 11 hours ago (4 children)

I'm not the person you replied to, but I recently recovered from a multi-month case of acute gastritis and I felt that the Culturelle OTC probiotic pill regimen I took helped

[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 91 points 11 hours ago (1 children)
[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 2 points 12 hours ago

Just a warning: the first Breakin' is waaaaaayyy better than Electric Boogaloo

[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 14 points 21 hours ago* (last edited 21 hours ago)

Finally a Mac with a touchscreen

[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 3 points 1 day ago

Thanks for linking the original!

[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 3 points 1 day ago

I use it on mobile using an add-on collection

[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 7 points 1 day ago (8 children)

I use the Bypass Paywalls Clean extension for Firefox

[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 9 points 1 day ago

One can only hope

[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 1 points 2 days ago

The horror ๐Ÿ˜ฑ

[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 4 points 3 days ago (2 children)

Starting at $889 oof. But yeah looks amazing

[โ€“] dditty@lemm.ee 10 points 5 days ago (1 children)

I would assume Awkward is motivated by narcissism and/or because they're a power-hungry freakazoid, but who knows? ๐Ÿคท

 

Hello fabulous fellow keeb enthusiasts! I have this really cool custom split ergo keyboard called a Dark Matter, and I think only 10 or so were made. I love typing on it, but I'm getting double inputs and the LEDs on the left side only work intermittently. Do you have any suggestions on how I could try to fix those issues? Do you think I need to resolder both PCBs entirely, just certain key switches, and/or all the LEDs? Reseating its teensy controllers did not fix the issue, for example.

Unfortunately the person who made these is not providing support for them so I'm on my own on this one.

Here's a reddit post I made 5 years ago when I first ran into these issues:

https://old.reddit.com/r/AtomComputer/comments/9rc2ep/leds_and_doubleiinputting/

I'd appreciate any advice you can offer, thanks so much!

 

Hello all! I wanted to briefly share my experience modding my Steam Deck OLED, should it be of use for anyone else!

Here are the pics

It seems like most replacement button sets are fully compatible with the Steam Deck OLED, except for the triggers/shoulder buttons and replacement trackpad covers. The shells are compatible but I did not want to remove my screen + adhesive to do the front shell, so I just did the back. I did have to trim the silicone piece that the volume buttons connect to to get it to fit.

The gulikit hall effect joysticks that specifically mention Steam Deck OLED compatibility were easy to install and calibrate by running thumbstick_cal in desktop mode, and whether it is just placebo or not, they definitely feel more precise than stock!

I did not do extensive before/after thermal testing, since many people have done that before. I did repaste the APU with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme as well since I had to remove the heatsink to get access to replace the power button

Here are the products I used:

Joysticks

Button set

Rear shell

1
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by dditty@lemm.ee to c/switchpirates@lemmy.dbzer0.com
 

Hello all!

I haven't followed the Switch homebrewing scene for several years, and could use some help! I have a v1 Nintendo Switch that I originally homebrewed using SXOS + SXOS Pro dongle. I know that SXOS is dead now, so I'm looking to update my setup to the current Switch homebrew platform. Is that Atmosphere? What is the recommended path for updating my homebrew setup? Can I still use my SXOS pro dongle with the new setup to launch custom firmware?

I came across this guide for example, is this still up-to-date?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer! :)

 

I went to a local german car show last weekend and I saw an A4 Avant that looked just like this (Lemmy won't let me upload my actual pic for some reason) and although it was done super well, I'm still not quite sure what I think of it.

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