dan

joined 1 year ago
[–] dan@upvote.au 2 points 1 hour ago* (last edited 1 hour ago) (1 children)

It's good for coding if you train it on your own code base. Not great for writing very complex code since the models tend to hallucinate, but it's great for common patterns, and straightforward questions specific to your code base that can be answered based on existing code (eg "how do I load a user's most recent order given their email address?")

[–] dan@upvote.au 5 points 1 hour ago* (last edited 1 hour ago)

They're all built on top of OpenAI which is very unprofitable at the moment. Feels like the whole industry is built on a shaky foundation.

Putting the entire fate of your company in a different company (OpenAI) is not a great business move. I guess the successful AI startups will eventually transition to self-hosted models like Llama, if they survive that long.

[–] dan@upvote.au 2 points 1 hour ago* (last edited 1 hour ago)

I receive alerts when people are outside my house, using security cameras, Blue Iris, CodeProject AI, Node-RED and Home Assistant, using a Google Coral for local AI. That's a good use case for AI since it avoids false positives that occur with regular motion detection.

[–] dan@upvote.au 2 points 5 hours ago* (last edited 5 hours ago) (2 children)

I don't have an iPhone but quite a few people I know are on that plan with Apple where you can upgrade every 12 months: https://www.apple.com/shop/iphone/iphone-upgrade-program

I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area so maybe it's region-specific. People do like new shiny tech here.

[–] dan@upvote.au 49 points 14 hours ago* (last edited 12 hours ago) (1 children)

Australia: Consumer protection laws are better than most other countries, even European countries. For example:

  • Products must last as long as a "reasonable consumer" would expect them to last, regardless of the warranty period. For example, at least 5-10 years for large appliances.
  • If there's a "major failure" any time during that period (a big problem with the product, if it stops working, if it differs from the description, is missing advertised features, or you wouldn't have bought it if you knew about the problem beforehand), the customer has a choice of whether they want to have the item repaired, replaced, or return it and get a refund. Customers can also ask for a partial refund based on loss of value.
  • The store you bought the item from must accept returns and warranty claims. They can't tell you to go to the manufacturer.
  • For repairs, returns and replacements of large items (like appliances), the company must pick it up and drop it off for free.
  • It's illegal for a store to not offer refunds (unless the items are second-hand).
  • Products must match descriptions in advertising, including what a sales person tells you. If a sales person tells you the product does something but it actually doesn't, you can get a refund.
  • Businesses get fined for breaking these rules. A chain of computer stores had to pay a $200,000 fine for showing an illegal "no refunds" sign and forcing people to go to the manufacturer for warranty claims, and were later fined $750,000 for doing it again: https://www.accc.gov.au/media-release/msy-technology-ordered-to-pay-penalties-of-750000-for-consumer-guarantee-misrepresentations

This applies for digital goods, too. As far as I know, Australia is the only country where you can get a refund from Steam for a major bug in a game regardless of how long you've owned the game for or how many hours you've played. Valve tried to avoid doing this and was fined $3 million: https://www.cnet.com/culture/entertainment/valve-to-pay-3-million-fine-for-misleading-australian-gamers/

[–] dan@upvote.au 6 points 14 hours ago* (last edited 14 hours ago)

This is explained in the article.

The 900 restaurants that received slivered onions from McDonald’s supplier Taylor Farms’ Colorado Springs facility will resume sales of Quarter Pounders without slivered onions

[–] dan@upvote.au 4 points 14 hours ago

You could probably swap out the TTS engine. I'd like to hear a podcast narrated by Microsoft Sam.

[–] dan@upvote.au 19 points 14 hours ago* (last edited 5 hours ago)

The current owner of Winamp tried to open source the Winamp 5 source code, but there were so many problems with the launch that they had to delete the repo. Things like a license that prevented the repo from being forked (which violates Github's terms of service), and the repo contained licensed proprietary code from companies like Dolby and Intel that wasn't supposed to be open sourced, things like that. They didn't understand how Git works so they unsuccessfully tried to delete the infringing code.

[–] dan@upvote.au 2 points 16 hours ago* (last edited 16 hours ago) (1 children)

I think it's all read-only access through, so you can only use it to import data not make new transactions.

That's alright. Even read-only access is useful. I could write a script that pulls my current investments, prompts for the amount I'll be investing in total, and prints out the buys (eg "buy 10 x VOO, 5 x VXF, 20 x VXUS") that'll keep the account balanced based on some percentages.

[–] dan@upvote.au 7 points 1 day ago

It's the same in SmartTube. Age-restricted videos haven't worked for a while, even if logged in.

[–] dan@upvote.au 3 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (3 children)

Does SimpleFIN use OAuth to log into bank accounts, or do you need to enter your bank's username and password?

Unrelated to this post, but do you know if SimpleFIN supports investment accounts? If it does, it seems like an easy way to let me write a script to help rebalance my investment accounts. I might look into it.

 

Google Analytics is broken on a bunch of my sites thanks to the GA4 migration. Since I have to update everything anyways, I'm looking at the possibility of replacing Google Analytics with something I self-host that's more privacy-focused.

I've tried Plausible, Umami and Swetrix (the latter of which I like the most). They're all very lightweight and most are pretty efficient due to their use of a column-oriented database (Clickhouse) for storing the analytics data - makes way more sense than a row-oriented database like MySQL for this use case.

However, these systems are all cookie-less. This is usually fine, however one of my sites is commonly used in schools on their computers. Cookieless analytics works by tracking sessions based on IP address and user-agent, so in places like schools with one external IP and the same browser on every computer, it just looks like one user in the analytics. I'd like to know the actual number of users.

I'm looking for a similarly lightweight analytics system that does use cookies (first-party cookies only) to handle this particular use case. Does anyone know of one?

Thanks!

Edit: it doesn't have to actually be a cookie - just being able to explicitly specify a session ID instead of inferring one based on IP and user-agent would suffice.

 

Sorry for the long post. tl;dr: I've already got a small home server and need more storage. Do I replace an existing server with one that has more hard drive bays, or do I get a separate NAS device?


I've got some storage VPSes "in the cloud":

  • 10TB disk / 2GB RAM with HostHatch in LA
  • 100GB NVMe / 16GB RAM with HostHatch in LA
  • 3.5TB disk / 2GB RAM with Servarica in Canada

The 10TB VPS has various files on it - offsite storage of alert clips from my cameras, photos, music (which I use with Plex on the NVMe VPS via NFS), other miscellaneous files (using Seafile), backups from all my other VPSes, etc. The 3.5TB one is for a backup of the most important files from that.

The issue I have with the VPSes is that since they're shared servers, there's limits in terms of how much CPU I can use. For example, I want to run PhotoStructure for all my photos, but it needs to analyze all the files initially. I limit Plex to maximum 50% of one CPU, but limiting things like PhotoStructure would make them way slower.

I've had these for a few years. I got them when I had an apartment with no space for a NAS, expensive power, and unreliable Comcast internet. Times change... Now I've got a house with space for home servers, solar panels so running a server is "free", and 10Gbps symmetric internet thanks to a local ISP, Sonic.

Currently, at home I've got one server: A HP ProDesk SFF PC with a Core i5-9500, 32GB RAM, 1TB NVMe, and a single 14TB WD Purple Pro drive. It records my security cameras (using Blue Iris) and runs home automation stuff (Home Assistant, etc). It pulls around 41 watts with its regular load: 3 VMs, ~12% CPU usage, constant ~34Mbps traffic from the security cameras, all being written to disk.

So, I want to move a lot of these files from the 10TB VPS into my house. 10TB is a good amount of space for me, maybe in RAID5 or whatever is recommended instead these days. I'd keep the 10TB VPS for offsite backups and camera alerts, and cancel the other two.

Trying to work out the best approach:

  1. Buy a NAS. Something like a QNAP TS-464 or Synology DS923+. Ideally 10GbE since my network and internet connection are both 10Gbps.
  2. Replace my current server with a bigger one. I'm happy with my current one; all I really need is something with more hard drive bays. The SFF PC only has a single drive bay, its motherboard only has a single 6Gbps SATA port, and the only PCIe slots are taken by a 10Gbps network adapter and a Google Coral TPU.
  3. Build a NAS PC and use it alongside my current server. TrueNAS seems interesting now that they have a Linux version (TrueNAS Scale). Unraid looks nice too.

Any thoughts? I'm leaning towards option 2 since it'll use less space and power compared to having two separate systems, but maybe I should keep security camera stuff separate? Not sure.

 

I have a 10Gbps internet connection. On a system with a 10Gbps Ethernet card, I can get ~8Gbps down and ~6Gbps up:

I'd expect this to easily max out a 2.5Gbps network connection. However, while the upload is maxed (or close to it), I can only ever get ~1.0 to 1.5Gbps down:

Both tests were performed on the same system. The only difference is that the first one uses a TRENDnet 10Gbps PCIe network card (which uses an Aquantia AQC107 chipset) whereas the second one uses the onboard NIC on my motherboard (Intel I225-V chipset).

This is consistent across two devices that have 10Gbps ports and two devices that have 2.5Gbps ports.

I'm using an AdTran 622v ONT provided by my internet provider, a TP-Link ER8411 router, and a MikroTik CRS312-4C+8XG-RM switch. I'm using CAT6 cabling, except for the connection between the router and the switch which uses an SFP+ DAC cable.

I haven't been able to figure it out. The 'slower' speeds are still great, I just don't understand why it can't achieve more than 1.5Gbps down over a 2.5Gbps network connection.

Any ideas?

1
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by dan@upvote.au to c/selfhosted@lemmy.world
 

I couldn't find a "Home Networking" community, so this seemed like the best place to post :)

My house has this small closet in the hallway and thought it'd make a perfect place to put networking equipment. I got an electrician to install power outlets in it, ran some CAT6 myself (through the wall, down into the crawlspace, to several rooms), and now I finally have a proper networking setup that isn't just cables running across the floor.

The rack is a basic StarTech two-post rack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001U14MO8/) and the shelving unit is an AmazonBasics one that ended up perfectly fitting the space (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W2X5Y8F/).

In the rack, from top to bottom (prices in US dollars):

  • TP-Link ER8411 10Gbps router. My main complaint about it is that the eight 'RJ45' ports are all Gigabit, and there's only two 10Gbps ports (one SFP+ for WAN, and one SFP+ for LAN). It can definitely reach 10Gbps NAT throughput though. $350
  • Wiitek SFP+ to RJ45 module for connecting Sonic's ONT (which only has an RJ45 port), and 10Gtek SFP+ DAC cable to connect router to switch.
  • MikroTik CRS312-4C+8XG-RM managed switch (runs RouterOS). 12 x 10Gbps ports. I bought it online from Europe, so it ended up being ~$520 all-in, including shipping.
  • Cable Matters 24-port keystone patch panel.
  • TP-Link TL-SG1218MPE 16-port Gigabit PoE switch. 250 W PoE power budget. Used for security cameras - three cameras installed so far.
  • Tripp Lite 14 outlet PDU.

Other stuff:

  • AdTran 622v ONT provided by my internet provider (Sonic), mounted to the wall.
  • HP ProDesk 600 G5 SFF PC with Core i5-9500. Using it for a home server running Home Assistant, Blue Iris, Node-RED, Zigbee2MQTT, and a few other things. Bought it off eBay for $200.
    • Sonoff Zigbee dongle plugged in to the front USB port
  • (next to the PC) Raspberry Pi 4B with SATA SSD plugged in to it. Not doing anything at the moment, as I migrated everything to the PC.
  • (not pictured) Wireless access point is just a basic Netgear one I bought from Costco a few years ago. It's sitting on the top shelf. I'm going to replace it with a TP-Link Omada ceiling-mounted one once their wifi 7 access points have been released.

Speed test: https://www.speedtest.net/my-result/d/3740ce8b-bba5-486f-9aad-beb187bd1cdc

Edit: Sorry, I don't know why the image is rotated :/ The file looks fine on my computer.

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