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OP I will delete this if you desire.
I wanted to like osm but the apps were all quite janky last time I looked. Way too much effort to get something clean and usable.
Have you tried Organic Maps? Works pretty well for me.
+1 for Organic Maps. Shame it's not open source, but still. Ideal for walking and travelling.
Edit: I stand corrected!
It is open source, licensed under the Apache License 2.0.
EDIT: Found it on f-droid: https://f-droid.org/en/packages/app.organicmaps/