this post was submitted on 15 Oct 2024
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I wanted to share my experience with waxing my bike chains.

I was resistant to waxing my chains because it seems that a lot of people felt it was "too much work".

But having to constantly clean black shit off my chains after every ride, then spend time degreasing and re-lubing, I figured I'd try waxing when I got my gravel bike.

Now, thousands of KM later and having converted all three bikes to waxed, there's no way I'd go back. The time saved could be measured in hours per month.

First, the biggest complaint is chain prep. Yeah, regardless if you're waxing or not, you'll need to prep a new chain by removing the factory grease. With waxed, you do this once, and no more worrying about degreasing ever again. Make like easy and get Silca's chain stripper, and it's a 10 minute, one-step process.

Ongoing chain maintenance couldn't be easier. After every ride, give the chain a quick wipe (or not). My chain stays clean, even after a 200 km ride.

And if you ride in wet or dirty conditions? Guess what, you're in for a LOT of work if you lube your chain. With waxed, keep a second (or third) chain ready to go, and you just swap it out (10 seconds of effort). Take the dirty chain, give it a wipe if it's only been wet, or pour boiled water onto it if you want to "reset" the chain to bare metal. Then drop it into the waxing pot for a re-wax. You don't have to stand at the pot, so there's no real time commitment here. I've spent more time completely dirtying large microfiber cloths trying to get my chain "clean" when lubed (hint: it's never clean if you use a wet lube, not without solvents and an ultrasonic cleaner).

For actual immersion wax, I do it every 1000 km (sooner than you need to), and use a drip wax every 200 - 250 km to keep things fresh.

Honestly, wax is easier, cleaner, and takes less time to maintain vs wet lube.

The only downsides? The initial cost to get started. But this is offset by not having to replace chains or other components prematurely. You actually save money in the long-term when using waxed chains.

Some might argue that "you can't run waxed chains in muddy or constantly rainy conditions". Well, at the same time, your wet lube isn't really helping matters in those situations, either. Waxed is still better, and you can swap chains much faster than you can clean the grinding paste from a wet lubed chain.

Who would I not recommend waxed chains to? Someone who rarely uses their bike. Drip lube will be "good enough" in those cases. But anyone else would benefit from waxing their chain.

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[–] avidamoeba@lemmy.ca 33 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (2 children)

You know what's even easier? Forgetting to lube your chain for a while. Then avoid lubing it out of shame to face your failure. Then measuring the chain wear after a year to discover no significant degradation.*

* Might require extra strong ebike-specific chains like KMC X11e EPT

[–] lud@lemm.ee 27 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Even easier is not caring or even knowing that you are supposed to do anything.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 5 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (3 children)

Ah, you must be one of those cyclists I can hear a mile away! SQUEAK, SQUEAK, SQUEAK!! 😂

[–] avidamoeba@lemmy.ca 12 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (1 children)

Another surprising thing for me is that at no point did it start making shameful noises.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 7 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Plot twist: You're actually using a carbon belt drive. 😆

[–] Longmactoppedup@aussie.zone 6 points 1 month ago (1 children)

7 years and counting. Have never had any maintenance on my belt. The Alfine 11 has had an oil change though.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Sounds like a dream! I'm sure at some point I'll go with a belt drive. For now, I'm quite content with a low-maintenance chain drivetrain. Especially for their ubiquity, lower cost, and ease of repair while out in the middle of nowhere. LOL

[–] Longmactoppedup@aussie.zone 3 points 1 month ago (1 children)

It's been very easy. Although I will say my use case is a 9km urban commute. Any issues I can jump on a train to the local bike shop.

Changing a rear tyre on a split frame in the middle of no where would be beyond me.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 1 month ago

Changing a rear tyre on a split frame in the middle of no where would be beyond me.

I don't think it's that difficult, at least not from the videos I've seen. But it certainly would be a challenge if you weren't in a comfortable area to do the work.

[–] markstos@lemmy.world 4 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Or they are Dutch and have a fully-enclosed chain that never gets wet or dirty.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 1 month ago

One thing I've done with my winter bike is added a front fender extender (DIY), which prevents any spray from hitting the front chainrings, chain, or down tube. Last year, it was a total game changer. The only thing I couldn't really help with was spray from the rear fender, which drips downwards onto the chain and cassette.

I don't even think a Dutch-style chain guard would help prevent contamination from the rear cassette getting drenched.

But the best "winter bike" is one with an internal gear hub, and a belt drive. And an aluminum frame. Unless you really abuse the hell out of it, there should be very little to worry about.

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[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 1 month ago (4 children)

Then measuring the chain wear after a year to discover no significant degradation.

How many miles/km?

Yes, good chains last longer. But good waxed chains can outlive the life of some bikes (20,000km on a waxed chain is not unheard of). And it preserves the components at the same time.

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[–] superkret 17 points 1 month ago (2 children)

Counter-point: Here's how I lube my chain.

Whenever the squeaking annoys me too much, I apply some lube.
Done.

[–] captainlezbian@lemmy.world 4 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Same. When it rusts I replace it

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[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 month ago (2 children)

Be sure that you're checking your chain for wear... and your cassette... and chainrings. That approach might work well for some, but squeaking is already a sign that wear has been occuring.

[–] ContrarianTrail@lemm.ee 8 points 1 month ago (1 children)

I don't see why anyone would need to go thru all that when we're talking about parts that will need to be replaced at some anyway point no matter how good care you take of them.

For me, my bike is to be used and abused. Yeah maybe my chain and cassette wears faster than with a proper maintenance but I also just keep riding way past that untill it effectively becomes unuseable. My chain is already stretched to the point I'm supposed to replace it and there's several teeth missing on my rear cassette but I notice no difference in performance. The shifting is going to be more or less shit either way because a new derailleur stays straight on my use for about 3 days. I've already mastered the trail-side derailleur adjustment by grabbing it with bare hands and bending it straight(er)

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 month ago

I don’t see why anyone would need to go thru all that when we’re talking about parts that will need to be replaced at some anyway point no matter how good care you take of them.

Plenty of reasons, even when you acknowledge that parts will eventually need to be replaced:

  • Convenience.
  • Quieter ride.
  • Cleaner.
  • No solvents when you need to really clean the chain.
  • Saves a LOT of money, especially when some newer cassettes are $300+, chains up to $100, etc. But even in my older bike, where the components are cheap, I'd rather not be spending money sooner and more often.
  • As with the above point, components last significantly longer, and work better for longer (i.e. better shifting, no chain skipping, etc.).
  • If you count watts, waxing will save them.
  • Because you aren't replacing components as often, this has environmental benefits, too.

I'm not a casual rider, so I want my bikes to run smoothly and with as little effort to maintain as possible. For me, waxing has been a blessing.

[–] Mr_Blott@feddit.uk 3 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

My chain checklist -

Have I put oil on the chain this decade? Y/N

Done!

[–] markstos@lemmy.world 13 points 1 month ago (2 children)

You lost me at 10-second chain swaps and boiling water.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 8 points 1 month ago

You lost me at 10-second chain swaps

Wipperman connex master links. No tools required. Can be reused "for the life of the chain". Takes a second to remove and re-connect. 10 second chain swap!

and boiling water.

Unlike with traditional bike chain lube, which require some rather harsh solvents to remove. Wax can be boiled off the chain when needed. You can go back to bare metal on a waxed chain without any solvents.

[–] BCsven@lemmy.ca 4 points 1 month ago

Not sure if there is a lighter weight version, but I used to run wax on motorcyles, it came as a spray can and went on almost like a clear plastic coating. Game changer for chain maintenance

[–] Fiivemacs@lemmy.ca 12 points 1 month ago

Key and Peele would be proud of your use on the chain wax

[–] allthelolcats@lemmy.world 7 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Wow! Thanks for putting up this super informative post and following through so many comments. I love using a waxed chain and I think it’s definitely hard for people to jump to when their bike maintenance is essentially zero. I run wet lube on one bike for wet weather riding (like >50% of the year) so I know both sides pretty well. The wax chain is so much easier to clean and maintain it’s crazy.

It’ll be hard to convert anyone that just lets their bike run into the ground before they start taking care of it, but they’re also probably on bikes that are sub $500 and aren’t looking for efficiencies or endurance performance.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 1 month ago (3 children)

It’ll be hard to convert anyone that just lets their bike run into the ground before they start taking care of it, but they’re also probably on bikes that are sub $500 and aren’t looking for efficiencies or endurance performance.

I think that's probably pretty accurate. If I had a bike kicking around that I may or may not use, I don't even think I'd be waxing that chain.

I also think that a good number of people are simply scared away by "all the work" that goes into waxing.

I'm almost looking forward to the winter, where I can really compare my experience between wax and wet lube.

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[–] AchtungDrempels@lemmy.world 6 points 1 month ago (2 children)

I don't like maintaining my bike much and the waxing seems like it's something for people that do.

Just using a little bit of oil holds fine for a pretty long time for me, if I don't ride in the rain a lot. I also never degrease my chain, I'll wipe it off with rug and that's it. And I feel like the nasty black chain is mostly a thing if you used too much oil? I am happy with my chain wear and actually surprised for how long it stays fine.

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[–] JillyB@beehaw.org 5 points 1 month ago (1 children)

I prefer belt drive with a sealed internal geared hub. It's not for everyone or every situation but it's nice riding in the wet and just putting the bike away after without thinking about cleaning and lubrication

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[–] c0smokram3r@midwest.social 4 points 1 month ago (2 children)

Wow, this is super insightful! Thanks! Been wondering about waxing chains. We’re getting into our wet season so this is definitely piquing my curiosity once again.

[–] iconherder@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

I just waxed the chain on my gravel bike and it’s going great so far. Maybe time to consider the mountain bikes. I do spend a lot of time lubing chains.

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[–] Geometrinen_Gepardi@sopuli.xyz 3 points 1 month ago (1 children)

I used to thin paraffin wax with xylene just enough to make a solution that stays liquid and apply it to the chain from an old chain oil dripper bottle. If applied liberally it flushes out what little dirt has accumulated on the chain and after a quick wipe you're done. The xylene evaporates leaving you with a waxed chain.

I used dry lubes for a while too but found the homemade wax liquid the most trouble-free option.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 month ago

Sounds like you made a DIY version of a commercial drip wax. I use Silca's drip wax, and I'm getting really good value out of it, so I'm not motivated enough to try something homemade. But I'm glad it works for you, and no doubt is better than most other lubes!

[–] beek@beehaw.org 3 points 1 month ago (1 children)

The SILCA strip chip does a great job of eliminating the need for chain prep. Worth the extra cost, if you don’t want to mess around with harsh chemicals.

Waxed chains are the bees knees. I’ll never go back to using lube.

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[–] Grass@sh.itjust.works 3 points 1 month ago (2 children)

I even use waxed chain through salt and snow. Hosed off once I get to work then compressed air to get the water off. Home side I hose it off then detach it and swish it in a tub of isopropyl and the next chain in the rotation goes on.

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[–] bitwolf@lemmy.one 3 points 1 month ago (3 children)

How do you melt the initial wax? Watching videos people use crockpots.

Doesn't that ruin the pot? Do you have a dedicated pot for the wax?

[–] Travelator@thelemmy.club 4 points 1 month ago

Thrift stores are full of old crock pots. We used to get them for candle making.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

If you use Silcas hot melt, then you can actually just boil the bag and put the chain in there. I haven't used it like that, but instead just got an inexpensive slow cooker (most are <$25 or nearly free if second hand).

It doesn't really "ruin" the pot, but I would dedicate it to wax only.

Interestingly enough, I've discovered wax melting pots designed specifically for melting waxes (i.e. for candle making), and while they might be a little more expensive than a slow cooker, they offer finer temperature control and may be slightly more convenient to use. With a cheap slow cooker, I'm quite happy!

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[–] JC1@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 month ago

I use a small wax heater for removing body hair. 20$ and gets the job done. If you plan to do more than one chain at a time though, it's too small. I'll probably buy a used crock pot or instant pot at some time to wax more than one chain at a time.

[–] Noobnarski@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago (1 children)

I just use some cheapo liquid chain wax on my bike and I dont clean my chain very often, I just put some new wax on the chain when it gets just even slightly squeaky. I have noticed that almost no dirt stays on the drivetrain with wax, it just falls off after a few km. Everything stuck to the chain when using oil, so its an improvement and I dont spend nearly as much effort on it as you do.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 3 points 1 month ago

Yup! Even drip wax will give better results vs. wet lube. The cleanliness blows me away every time!

I was at a group ride and showed some of the guys how clean the chain was... wiped it with my bare hands, and nothing. That was after like 60km of riding! LOL

[–] Pulptastic@midwest.social 2 points 1 month ago (7 children)

Maybe I don’t do enough? I tried degreasing my chain in jars and with one of those chain cleaner things and saw no benefit but lots of extra work and mess.

Now I never degrease. Add lube to chain on the bike, several rotations to work it in, several rotations through a rag to clean it off. Takes three minutes and I do that monthly for the road bike, weekly for MTB, and after cleaning the bike. I never have to take the chain off until I replace it.

I use wet lube on the MTB and rock n roll extra dry on road bike.

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[–] theskyisfalling@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

I really want to try waxing my chain but I commute on my bike and more than half the year it is wet and rainy so I had always read that it wouldn't really be suitable due to the wetness. It is interesting to hear that this may not actually be as much of an issue as I was lead to believe by everything I had dead about it.

I generally keep on top of my maintainance and will wash the bike usually once a week including cleaning the filthy as fuck chain.

Think I may look into waxing again after reading this.

[–] Showroom7561@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Unless your commutes are 150 km a day, wax will still be better than wet lube. Rotating among multiple chains would be the way to go.

The lower the speed count, the less expensive the chain, but you'll save money in the long run, even with multiple 11 speed chains (which are way more expensive than something like a 7/8 speed chain).

I generally keep on top of my maintainance and will wash the bike usually once a week including cleaning the filthy as fuck chain.

I got tired of that. And realistically, you'll never get a "clean" chain when using wet lube unless you use an ultrasonic cleaner + solvents (and run it through multiple cleaning cycles). You can clean the outside of the chain, but the wear happens around the pins, and you can't wipe that clean.

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[–] thatsnothowyoudoit@lemmy.ca 2 points 1 month ago (5 children)

Started with wet wax five years ago. Two years ago migrated to immersion waxing.

I do 5-10 chains at a time. It takes all of 15 minutes.

Then I wet wax between immersion waxing sessions.

Chains last a wildly long time and the time saved in between rides is incredible. Not to mention how clean all other parts stay.

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