this post was submitted on 25 Nov 2024
13 points (88.2% liked)

3DPrinting

15655 readers
41 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io

There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
 

I'm currently using an Orbiter 1.5 and it's pretty decent but I'm looking for an upgrade. I like the light style extruder sitting on the gantry over a Bowden system as it allows for flexible filament and has much better control over retraction.

Is the 2.0 a significant improvement over the 1.5? Should I get a new hotend as well with it?

Right now I'm using a MicroSwiss all metal hotend and am quite satisfied with it.

Print speed is okay I guess.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] Rolive@discuss.tchncs.de 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Detail. I'm looking to achieve tighter tolerances with 3D printing, going for dimensional accuracy.

[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 1 day ago

Dimensional accuracy doesn't necessarily mean detail. What are your expectations? You should be able to get fairly crisp and dimensionally accurate prints, but there's a ceiling. With FDM you're ultimately running what could be considered a CNC hot glue gun so absolute accuracy won't ever be as good as a resin or SLS printer.

Do your parts look good, but their dimensions are off? If yes, you probably need to scale your parts to accomodate for shrinkage. That's what the Voron team did and their parts fit together really nicely with non-printed parts when printed on a decently tuned printer. Their threaded test prints are a pretty good indication of how well dialed in your printer is.

Some of this also comes down to temp and material, so if you had the perfect interface and changed material you might need to iterate a few times. There are also the design quirks that you learn as you go, especially for things like small holes in parts often being smaller printed than designed. Print a hole gauge set, with a series of holes ranging in size, and use the one whose printed - not designed - dimensions are the one you want.