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yxzi@lemmy.ml

Home made oilcloth. Slight disaster, advice appreciated (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 month ago by str82L@lemmy.world to c/bushcraft@lemmy.ml

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I've made my first attempt at oilcloth. Used linseed oil (boiled I think but I no longer have the container), turpentine in equal parts, and iron oxide (quarter part). Looks beautiful, but...

First problem is it just won't dry. Been hanging under cover in a well-ventilated area for a few weeks and it's still very tacky. I'm guessing I just need to leave it longer.

More of an issue though is the iron oxide leaves residue whenever it's touched. Any ideas on how to get rid of the excess? Google does not appear to be my friend today.

Any help greatly appreciated!

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[–] Observer1199@lemmy.ml 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Drying time can be over 1 month

Why did you put iron oxide in the mix?

[–] str82L@lemmy.world 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Why did you put iron oxide in the mix?

Various recipes say it both dyes and adds to waterproofing by filling in the gaps in the weave.

Now that I think about it, I'm wondering if the weave was too loose to hold the particles. I wanted something lighter than a full weight canvas so I used a seemingly tightly woven linen tablecloth. I hot washed it to shrink/tighten it further before applying the treatment, but I've noticed I can still see light through the fabric.

We live and learn I guess. Bit of an expensive experiment, but it's an excuse to try again. I prefer the natural linseed colour to the red of the iron oxide anyway.

[–] Observer1199@lemmy.ml 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Once its dry you might be able to wash it off so it doesn't stain when you touch it

[–] str82L@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago

So I hung out out in the weather and sure enough most of it is more dry now (even after a few bits of rain) and the boys that are dry don't shed powder. There are still bits of oil damp spots, and they still release powder. Patience I guess.