Photography

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/15626300

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/15626250

Seen today in Boulder, CO, USA.

More pictures on pixelfed!

https://pxlmo.com/p/buffy/698309706997654046

Canon EOS 550D / T2i

Tamron 17 - 50mm f/2.8

Canon EOS 550D / T2i

Tamron 17 - 50mm f/2.8

I think I'm going to lean into the FF E-mount world, which means giving up my D5300 + Nikon AF-S 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 VR (115 - 450 FF equivalent). Before kids, I used this lens for motorsports/landscape/travel. Post kids we don't do a ton of that, so I've been getting along well with a pair of 35mm and 50mm primes.

My kids are pretty young and are starting to play outdoor sports like T-ball and soccer. This has brought my D5300 + 70-300 out of retirement. I'm missing the conviences of my A9, so I'm trying to figure out what lens I should get for sports duty. At this point, everything is outdoors during the middle of the day so there's no need for a fast lens. It was pretty drizzly last weekend and my current (slow lens) setup still kept ISO below 1k most of the day with a 1/640 shutter. I figure I can comfortably double ISO and halve my shutter speed on the A9 while still getting a lower noise image than I have today, so I don't think I need fast glass.

Looking through EXIF data from the previous few games on the D5300 + 70-300 it looks like I use the full range of focal lengths, but the vast majority of shots are under 400mm FF EQ and above 150mm FF EQ. I'm a little wary of wanting more reach in a few years when the kids are on bigger fields, but they'll also be bigger so maybe it will wash out. Who knows if they'll still be interested in playing either.

So what do you think?

• Third part lens that stops at 400? This means no teleconvertor in the future, but this seems like it would work well for today
• First party 100-400? Adding a 1.4 teleconvertor makes this a 140-560, but it also makes the f-stop at the long end f/8 which might not be great for sports
• 500mm? Tamron's 150-500 seems decent and doesn't call too much attention to itself, but it is heavier
• 600mm? These lenses are all fairly bit/shouty visually, but are potentially more future proof....

shot on a7siii with a nikon Ai-s 28mm f/2.0

So I've got a bit of color blindness going on (a bit blue and yellow, a bit more red and green (not to mention some colors are painful but that's a different story lol)) and I had a question about editing pictures to show what different colorblindness looks like. My friends keep asking me how I see things and I'd love to show them.

I've been editing pictures for years but I'd say I still have a lot to learn in the color grading and color space departments (not like it's easy for me lol)

Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I primarily use Lightroom but I've been learning Dark Table recently. So either would be fine.

As seen from Colorado, USA close to midnight (May 11th, 2024).

Hi guys, made the jump to lemmy today and wanted to share a few pictures of my cats I've taken. I bought the camera a couple years ago for macro photography, primarily surveying moth populations, and busted it back out recently.

Any comments on the photography, or anything really, is welcome!

Also, I couldn't figure out how to add multiple photos, so any advice on that would be great

Margaret Perry DaRos

I currently own two canon cameras, an EOS M10 i bought around 2017/2018 new for around £150 and a secondhand EOS 1300d i bought last week from a second hand electronics shop for £110 (body only, i already had lenses from an old EOS 200d)

Spec wise they seem to be extremely similar cameras just with the 1300 being larger with better lenses and more manual features

My dad mentioned that he was thinking of buying a new camera as his one was bought way back in like 2010 and wasn't a particularly up to date model at the time so i am considering selling him my M10.

looking at ebay though they seem to be going for £200-400 which i find a bit strange for a camera that first hit the market back in 2015 and is way more than i paid new (although reduced to clear) from John Lewis.

Am i missing something? How much is the M10 worth? and is it really worth more than it's newer (2016) DSLR counterpart?

Just got my hands on an OM-1 MKII and an m.zuiko ED 100-400. No bird will be safe from me ever again!

Pixelfed post: https://pxlmo.com/i/web/post/692562477489803431

Pixelfed post: https://pxlmo.com/i/web/post/692562477489803431

Refreshing day trying to capture things that I find pretty. Not worried about shooting an awesome photo, just focused on capturing something I find beautiful and pleasant to look at.

This is "The Frigatebird and the Diamond Ring" by Liron Gertsman, shot on a Canon EOS R5.

Source: https://liron-gertsman-photography.myshopify.com/products/the-frigatebird-and-the-diamond-ring

Article: How a Photographer Captured His Spectacular Dream Eclipse Photo (lots more pictures here)

Springbrook National Park, QLD, AU

Canon EOS 550D Tamron 17 - 50mm, f/2.8

Canon EOS 550D Tamron 17 - 50mm, f/2.8

Hi,

I'm trying to wrap my head around the rolling shutter effect, specifically why it happens.

I'm having a hard time understanding how the readout speed affects the image. If I understood correclty, when in electronic shutter mode the pixels are exposed as indicated by the shutter speed (e.g. at 1/1000 each pixel is exposed for 1/1000 of a second).

If the readout takes 1/100 s to scan the entire sensor, what happens exactly when I take the picture? Do the pixels start firing sequentially as the shutter speed dictates (i.e. 1/1000 s each, sequentially)? If that is the case, do they wait for the readout to catch up or do they continue firing? If the latter, by the time the readout reaches the second pixel, the eleventh pixel is firing, so there are 10 pixel between the one firing and the one being read. Does it work like this?

If the pixels are exposed for 1/1000 s and then turned off and their value stored, wouldn't that mean that the image should not be affected? I mean, they saw the subject for 1/1000 s and the motion should be frozen, they are just waiting for the value to be read. Just like if you asked 10 people to open their eyes for 1 second (shutter speed), one after the other, and draw what they see. They saw if for one second each, so at most the difference in the position of what they saw should cover 10 seconds. Then they can take hours to draw what they saw (readout speed), but what they saw specifically wouldn't be afftected by how long it takes them to draw it. Am I wrong here maybe?

Also, in general, why is mechanical shutter not as affected (if affected at all) by the rolling shutter effect? Does the sensor capture light differently when in mechanical shutter mode?

I just don't get it. I feel like I'm close to understanding why, but I still don't.

I know I'm probably weird for focusing so much on something technical like this, but it just bugs me so much.

Any help is greatly appreciated, really.

The sun was at just the right height to catch this deer trail on the edge of our yard.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/post/11308547

Linux photogs, help me out. What does your workflow look like? What apps do you use?

I've found that digikam is really good for managing my keywords and metadata, and organising photos post shoot, but the image editing is limited.

And using separate image editing software leads to problems, because my camera's raw files (.cr3) aren't very well supported.

I can make it work, by using Lightroom online, but it's not exactly an integrated system due to its cloud based design.

I've tried running Lightroom in a VM, but ran in to trouble giving the VM access to my GPU...

So those who have made it work, what does it look like for you?