bike wrench

I watched a video from Zero Friction Cycling where he tested a bunch of chain checker tools.

The original video can be found here.

Only a few were accurate, and the Park Tool CC-3.2 check that I've been using for a few years now, seems to be one of the bad ones.

Today, I decided to get the CC-4 (the Shimano checker they recommended isn't available in Canada, apparently), and rechecked the chains on my bike.

It went from "beyond 0.5mm wear" with the CC-3.2 to "not even close to 0.5mm" on the CC-4.

I guess I figured out why my chains weren't lasting long... according to the CC-3.2. 🤑😭

What chain checker tool(s) are you guys using, and have you used any that were just flat out wrong?

Im building a single speed mini velo with 20inch bmx wheels.

Right now Im at the process on building its wheels and I was thinking on getting bmx hubs instead of 'normal size bike wheel hubs' because they are cheaper.

Are there any downsides on doing that? Is there a substantial difference between these two types or it is just a marketing thing?

I want to build my own wheels.

What I got so far are the rims: https://www.flybikes.com/product/fly-lunar-lite-rim-black/RLRL03

And some potential hubs: Rear: https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/hubs-and-spares-c120/hubs-c591/surly-ultra-new-rear-disc-mtn-hub-p9851 Front: https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/components-c9/hubs-and-spares-c120/hubs-c591/sp-dynamo-pv-8-power-dynamo-ultra-small-front-hub-p11398

I would like to get some sapim spokes but all the online calculators online are failing me because I cant find all the data points they ask: https://www.sapim.be is there an easy way to do that? Should I order the components first and measure them myself? (I felt that is kinda risky as I want to make sure everything would be compatible first)

So, I've got fresh Schwalbe Big Apple tires coming in for my Tern folding bike.

I hadn't realized it until I went to order, but the ones that came with the bike are last-gen Big Apple tires with K-Guard puncture protection and SBC compound. Now, I've never had a single problem with this version of the Big Apple tires. No flats in well over 4000km, and I take this bike on really long (150km+) rides.

The new version of the Big Apple tires are Raceguard with the Addix compound. This apparently makes the tires lighter, more durable, more puncture resistant, able to handle more weight, and have lower rolling resistance. It'll be quite the upgrade for the "same" tire.

I had originally ordered the set because my rear tire is looking pretty bald, and I'd like a fresh pair for this year. The front tire still looks like they have quite a bit of tread left on them.

Question: Should I replace both tires and get the all the benefits of the newer gen compound (keeping the old front as a spare), or will it not make enough difference to even worry about replacing the front tire right now?

I'm looking for a physical book on bike repair, so that I don't have to be Wi-Fi connected to fix my bike. I'm partial to diagrams over pictures or walls of text. I'd prefer it be versatile to all sorts of bike types. Thanks in advance.

Hi all, i have this wear indicator and i am unclear what it exactly measures. I have a 11 speed chain that i am trying to measure and it almost fits. On other wear indicator tools i see they put 0.5 % / 0.75 % / 1 % annotations on it, that would have been helpful here too.

I looked at the documentation but it is not mentioned. When i put it next to a ruler, it think the indicator length is about 89mm.

https://www.topeak.com/global/en/product/576-CHAIN-HOOK-&-WEAR-INDICATOR

I had my first dropped chain... as in, the chain fell completely off my bike. The side of one pin on the KMC missing link appeared to have popped right off. Nothing else was missing or damaged.

That link was the original and had only been removed once since the chain was installed, approx 900km before, when the cassette was replaced around 800km ago.

The only recent change to my bike was buying new wheels, but other than reindexing (at the LBS), shifting was excellent before and after the wheel swap.

Was it just bad luck, or is there something that might have caused this that I should watch out for?

The replacement link says reusable (Original KMC), but perhaps the original with the chain isn't as strong?

I'll note that this happened on a very casual ride, so no added weight, hills, or power going through the pedals. I shifted and it fell off. 😵

I got a new GRX, that has a dropper remote in left lever, but it takes the cable with the end. My dropper takes this end too. So I found a solution. Part of X01 chain fits on the cable very well and can be soldered on. There was not a lot of space to do this, but on 2nd try I managed to make it stay on and could not pull it off with pliers. I really hope it will stay put, because it was a PITA, but it worked. So if you run into this, you are very welcomed to steal my trick.

Has anyone applied the pressure recommendations given on Silca's site: https://silca.cc/pages/sppc-form

From what it tells me, I can safely put in 30 to 33 PSI of pressure in my Schwalbe Marathon GT 365 tires (26"x2") on poor roads. This would be below the min 35 PSI listed on the tire, and about 20 PSI lower than what I've ever run them at.

I'm not too terribly worried about punctures, but do worry about pinch flats.

Thoughts?

Hi all

The rear wheel of my ebike started making an extra whirring/whining noise last time I rode it. It only made the noise when the motor was engaged and under load, not while coasting. The noise got louder as the load increased. Also this bike is relatively new, bought from ALDI's special buys. I could get a refund from them but they won't have any stock to give me a new one.

There was also some oil/lubricant coming down the hub face, either from the hub itself or from the rear sprocket which also acts as a free hub.

I thought one of the sealed bearings in the hub might have let go but they are fine. There seems to be no lubricant in the freehub/rear sprocket (Is this normal?)

I opened up the hub to see if anything is going on in there and the grease looks odd? could it have been overheated at some point? If I do replace the grease what should I use?

Last month, for the first time in thousands of KM, I got a flat tire.

It was fixed (replaced tube) and I've happily ridden another 400km since.

But I ride at nearly max pressure for the tires, because I assume this was caused by a pinch flat. At the time this flat happened, I was not running low pressure, but lower pressure than I am now (50psi vs 60psi, perhaps), and it happened on a very low speed ride on a smooth trail... no hard hits.

This was a new tube that I installed about 350km earlier, so maybe "user error."

But can someone tell me what might have actually been the cause of that type of flat?

Just saw this crack in my tire, don't like the look of it. Is it still fine?

At the beginning of the season I bought a beautiful teal 1988 Trek 1000 and have been riding the hell out of it. Unfortunately all that riding has come at a price, Ive ruined two rear wheels(rims) over the span of a few months.

I know I can tuck my tail and head back into the shop to have them lace me up a new wheel (they got me back on the road for a good price the first time) but I'd like to take a stab at building a wheel myself.

So my question, how hard is it to build a wheel?

• I've watched the park tools wheel building and truing videos and I'm sure they make it look easier than it really is.
• There's a few shops around me that do "open shop" hours a few times a week that i plan on taking advantage of if i actually do this.
• I also looked at just getting a new wheelset but then discovered the freewheel vs cassette change and the old hub width is the old 126mm standard and decided it might be easier if i just learned to lace a wheel and put a new rim on.

(I guess I'm actually just looking for some encouragement, tips)

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.one/post/3195595

A couple years ago, no tools 😅. I was commuting between home and campus just a mile away, so if something went wrong I'd just lock the bike and come for it later.

Nowadays, just a few to do an inner tube & chain replacement, and some other small bits that might come in handy.

• 2 spanners (one adjustable)
• Backup lights & head torch
• Tyre levers & adhesive puncture patches
• Mini track-style pump
• Screwdriver for the chain enclosure
• Pliers for the rollerbrakes and internal hub gear cables

Picture

I've found the head torch to be surprisingly helpful... Had a puncture in the dark once, and without that I would have been there a while lol

Another designed and 3D printed tool added to my toolbox. This time it is for cleaning individual pistons on Saint / Zee calipers.

It easily rotates 90° by hand.

After rotating it:

Hey gang. I'm building up my bike repair tool set, and it looks like I'll either need to get a set (or several popularly sized) cone wrenches and/or an adjustable wrench with a thin profile.

I figure an adjustable wrench could help service anything from axles/hubs to headsets, which cone wrenches are limited to the size(s) you've got.

Any advantage/disadvantage of one over the other that I might not realize?

My pump won't stay on my valve extenders because it does not have the threading required for it to grip or stay on the valve. Is there any solution to this? Perhaps some sort of adapter?

Hi all

When I'm on the biggest wrong on my rear sprocket I can hear a light ticking noise when I pedal.

The noise goes away when I keep the shifter pressed down, as the chain is then properly aligned with the sprocket (I think)

How would I adjust the derailleur to fix this? Do I need to change the limit screw or just the tension of the cable?

Pointers into the right direction are appreciated 😅

Thanks!

Normally when gears wear out you just replace them, but hub gears (like Shimano Alfine) this means rebuilding the entire wheel.

Any recommendations for getting them working better without a lot of cost & expertise?

The idea of waxing my chains sounds really appealing, especially since I absolutely hate how dirty my chains get no matter how thorough, or often I clean them.

But I've heard that chains should be waxed often... like every 100 miles, which seems like a lot of work for not a lot of riding.

Is this true, assuming dry, clean riding conditions?

I've been trying to find suitable brake pads for these brakes on my bike; Kool stop and swiss stop have both been recommended as brands, but i can't figure out which actual pads to buy.

I'm not picky, and mostly ride in dry conditions, just want to make sure I buy something that i can mount on my bike and will work!